In Ayurvedic beauty, we apply to the skin only products that can also be eaten. Follow the guide !
Ayurvedic cosmetics: 100% natural Indian plant ingredients
For rebalance the skin and hair, beautify and protect them, Ayurvedic cosmetics draws from the Indian garden, among its flowers, fruits, spices and plants. In the form of powders (almond, rose, nettle, horsetail, turmeric for the best known, but also manjishta and amla, specifically Indian plants), vegetable oils and butters, hydrosols (water obtained from the distillation of plants), this cosmetic does not use additives, artificial perfumes or preservatives.
“In Ayurveda, we use natural, plant and pure products”, summarizes Émilie Jolibois, cosmetic ingredient research expert at Aroma-Zone.
Ayurveda, a philosophy that takes into account being as a whole
In the West, our cosmetics are based solely on the analysis of the skin or the hair. Our products, for example, aim to rebalance oily skin or nourish dry lengths. Ayurvedic beauty takes into account much broader criteria.
Ayurveda considers that the human being is a whole, and that “our personality influences the state of our skin“, explains Émilie Jolibois. This discipline does not only take into account physical criteria, but also broader characteristics specific to each individual.
Where can you find the basic ingredients to prepare your Ayurvedic treatments?
The essential bases for Ayurvedic beauty are available:
- in Indian stores (plant powders under the Hesh brand, in particular),
- in organic store,
- in herbalism,
- in a boutique specializing in natural cosmetics,
- and more simply in the food aisle of supermarkets (almond powder, coconut milk, coconut, sesame and sweet almond oils, spices). In this case, prefer them organic.
Note: the Aroma-Zone brand (aroma-zone.com) offers, in its stores and on the Internet, a wide range of Ayurvedic ingredients, as well as all the necessary equipment to make its treatments (cups, bottles, etc.). herbs-et-traditions.fr, there are hydrosols and vegetable oils. Finally, velan.paris sells powders of Indian plants.
Ayurvedic, a cosmetic adapted to each dosha
To identify the treatments that are best for you, you must first determine your prakriti, your first nature. This is based on three doshas which constitute the individual in unequal proportions: one can be at dominant vata – air and ether -, to dominant pitta – fire and water – or to dominant kapha – water and earth.
To each of these doshas correspond physical and psychic characteristics such as the nature of the skin or the hair, but also the build, the appearance of the teeth or the appetite.
Having an ideal constitution, which corresponds to the perfect balance of these three doshas, is very rare.. Most often, one to two doshas dominate, while others are insufficient. The goal of Ayurveda is to “restore balance by soothing the dominant dosha (s)”, indicates Sylvie Hampikian, pharmacotoxicologist specializing in natural active ingredients. If plants and Ayurvedic maneuvers are sometimes adapted to one or the other of the doshas that they rebalance, many treatments are suitable for all profiles.
How to determine your dominant dosha?
To choose the Ayurvedic recipes that suit you, refer to these simplified tables.
3 skin and hair oils to adopt immediately
- Dominant kapha: adopt neem (or neem) oil.It relieves irritated skin, redness, acne. Pour a few drops into the palm of your wet hand, emulsify then apply to the face or body. As a hair mask, this oil rehydrates the scalp and eliminates dandruff. Its minus: a rather unpleasant smell.
- Dominant pitta: bet on coconut oil. Moisturizing and softening, it leaves the skin smooth and silky. As a hair mask, it restores vigor to the hair, which it sheaths and protects without weighing it down.
- Dominant vata: say yes to sesame oil. Its nutritional qualities make it an exceptional treatment. It prevents wrinkles and works wonders on very dry skin. Very effective also in massaging the ends of dry hair. Keep cool because it can go rancid.
To try: a “no poo” with Indian clay
Green clay multani mitti works wonders on oily hair. We mix 4 tablespoons with lukewarm water to make a paste. The roots are massaged before stretching it lengthwise and leaving it on for a few minutes, then rinsing. A second rinse with water topped with apple cider vinegar (2 tablespoons in 1/2 liter of water) will give more shine.
This shampoo owes its washing effect to the natural saponins of Indian clay, washing agents. Hair may appear coarse due to the lack of silicone in the recipe, but it will regain its luster in the next few days. Small bonus: the clean effect lasts longer because the hair is less damaged and regrease less quickly in reaction. How much does it cost ? Less than a euro per shampoo.
Powders, hydrosols, butters, balms, milks or oils: different uses
Ayurvedic vegetable oils, balms and butters
Nourishing, protective and softening, vegetable oils, balms and butters are used in massage. Rich and tender, butters, which are solid at room temperature, are obtained after pressing the stones or seeds of fruits, mango, kokum or sal, for example. Liquid oils are obtained by the same process. By mixing butter and vegetable oil, we obtain a balm, a semi-solid paste which melts on contact with body heat and is used for localized massages and for the care of dry areas of the body and face.
Ayurvedic plant powders
Plant powders – petals, roots, bark or powdered leaves – are used as a basis for making pastes used as a mask or for cleansing the skin and hair. Shikakai and reetha (soap nuts) powders, naturally rich in saponins with washing properties, are widely used for washing hair.
On the face side, each has its own properties:
- the neem powder cleanses and tones acne-prone skin;
- the brahmi powder, mature and tired skin;
- the centella powder heals damaged or wrinkled skin;
- the rose powder is an astringent for oily skin, gives a healthy glow, erases traces of fatigue;
- the chickpea powder is cleansing and sanitizing;
- the ashwagandha powder tones mature skin and awakens the complexion;
- the turmeric powder has a healthy glow and anti-aging effect (add 2 or 3 pinches in a mask);
- the cinnamon powder is stimulating (add 2 or 3 pinches in a mask, no more, because it is irritating).
The basic recipe: 1 to 2 tsp. tablespoons of plant powder in a cup + half of lukewarm water or rose water. Mix until a toothpaste-type paste is obtained, and optionally a few drops of vegetable oil or a drop of essential oil are added. Apply in a homogeneous layer except around the eyes, leave on for 10 minutes without waiting for drying and rinse with small gentle circular movements.
Hydrosols are floral waters in Ayurvedic
Hydrosols are floral waters that are used as spray lotions on the face to complete the cleaning, before applying an oil. Patchouli, Damascus rose, frankincense and sandalwood hydrosols are the most widely used. Their properties are identical to those of the essential oils which correspond to them:
- the patchouli is antiseptic and healing, it improves acne;
- the damask rose fights against wrinkles and repairs the skin;
- the sandalwood is rebalancing
- and incense is a skin repairer.
The milks are used for cleansing and removing make-up from the face
For any type of dosha dominant, the powdered coconut milk to dilute in water, less fat than coconut milk from the food department and without emulsifiers, is particularly effective and gentle in ridding the skin of impurities. It is enough to pass it on the face with a cotton ball, including the eye contours, before rinsing off with water and proceeding with your usual skincare routine. In addition, to remove eyeshadows and mascara, opt for a sweet almond oil, without fear for the fragile eye area.
Our selection of Ayurvedic cosmetics:
Ayurvedic turmeric soap, 100 g, Karawan Authentic, € 7. On karawan.fr. This turmeric and coconut oil soap gives a light lather and can also be used as a shampoo.
Organic virgin coconut oil, Ayurkanti, € 9.90. On produitsayuvediques.fr. It smooths the skin, revitalizes dry hair and replaces makeup remover.
Ayurvedic organic massage oil, 100 ml, Aroma-Zone, € 7.90. In stores and on aroma-zone.com. An oil rich in essential oils and with a spicy fragrance that harmonizes vital energies.